Northern Italy with Kids: 10 unforgettable days around Turin, Milan, and Verona
Italy’s allure is undeniable – the food, the history, the art, the sweeping mountain views. And so, we embarked on a 10-day trip, filled with family, friends, and a sprinkle of that characteristic Italian charm (and a bit of chaos) as we navigated Turin, Milan, and smaller gems like Casalpusterlengo, Lenna, Verona, and Parma. Here’s a little peek into what made our journey to Italy with kids unforgettable, from the wonderful to the “ah, Italy!” moments.
Italy with kids: TURIN
Turin holds a special place in our hearts, as family live here, and every trip brings with it that beautiful mix of nostalgia and discovery. This visit was especially unique – it was the first time for our daughters, Mimi and Lou, to experience the charm and quirks of this post-industrial yet enchanting city.
Turin might be known for its industrial roots, but today it exudes a distinctly post-industrial charm. While the air quality could use some improvement, the city is undeniably beautiful. Its grand architecture and the majestic view of the Piemonte mountains create a stunning backdrop that lingers in your memory.
The city centre, with its gems like Piazza Castello, is perfect for strolling and soaking in Turin’s rich history. This bustling square is surrounded by iconic landmarks like the Palazzo Madama, a blend of medieval and baroque architecture, and Palazzo Reale, the former residence of the Royal House of Savoy. For those interested in religious history, the Turin Cathedral (Duomo di San Giovanni) is nearby, home to the famed Shroud of Turin (though it’s only displayed on rare occasions).
A short walk away is Piazza San Carlo, often called Turin’s Living Room for its elegant and welcoming atmosphere. This symmetrical square is flanked by baroque churches, San Carlo Borromeo and Santa Cristina, and is dotted with historic cafés like Caffè Torino and Caffè San Carlo. Both are perfect spots to enjoy a coffee, a bicerin, or just to soak up the ambiance while imagining the square’s long history of gatherings and events.
For a serene break from Turin’s bustling streets, Giardino Lamarmora offers a peaceful retreat filled with lush greenery, shaded pathways, and moments of quiet reflection. One of the garden’s standout features is a striking sculpture by Rodolfo Marasciuolo, an artist known for creating sculptures using salvaged materials and garbage, transforming discarded items and highlighting the potential beauty in the overlooked. Adding to the charm of this urban oasis are the intertwined heart-shaped hedges, which bring a whimsical, romantic touch to the space. As we wandered, it was also fun to spot clusters of ornamental kales tucked among the greenery, adding unexpected pops of texture and colour to the garden. These delightful touches make Giardino Lamarmora not only a place to unwind but also a spot to appreciate art, nature, and a bit of playful planting.
A visit to Turin’s city centre wouldn’t be complete without exploring its shopping streets. Via Roma, the main shopping avenue, is lined with elegant arcades and high-end boutiques, while Via Garibaldi, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, offers a more relaxed vibe with its mix of shops, street performers, and quaint cafés.
If you’re a food lover, don’t miss Mercato di Porta Palazzo, one of the largest open-air markets in Europe, located at Piazza della Repubblica. It’s a vibrant hub of activity where you can find fresh produce, cheeses, handmade crafts, and even vintage treasures. For a more curated food experience, the Quadrilatero Romano area nearby boasts trendy eateries tucked away in charming cobblestone streets.
Art enthusiasts will appreciate Galleria Sabauda, housing an impressive collection of Renaissance and Baroque masterpieces, while those looking for a unique cultural experience can explore the Mole Antonelliana.
Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or someone seeking serene moments, Turin’s city centre offers a delightful mix of grandeur, culture, and charm, making it a joy to explore.
Turin is renowned for its museums, and many are well worth a visit. One of our favourites was the Cinema Museum. With its charming displays of familiar characters, we ended up playing an enthusiastic game of “Guess the Movie” with Mimi. Now, I’ll admit, there was a small pang of guilt – I’m all too aware that she watches a bit more TV than recommended – but her joy was undeniable, and sometimes you just have to embrace those shared moments, screen time and all!
Then came the Egyptian Museum (Museo Egizio), which was a mixed bag for our little Lou, who, in typical toddler fashion, got herself shushed for a brief (yet apparently disruptive) cry while I retrieved a snack from my bag. Though Mimi’s fascination with the mummies and sarcophagi waned after a bit, Pedro and I were captivated. We even tried reading some hieroglyphics and discovered the symbols for our names – fun for us, but maybe a few years ahead of Mimi’s historical interests.
Sadly, this time, we missed the National Car Museum. It’s a fantastic spot for kids (and car-loving adults), so it’s on the list for next time.
Tips for Families: Turin’s public museums are free on the first Sunday of the month, but many popular ones, like the Cinema and Egyptian museums, are private, so they aren’t included in this offer. Additionally, Turin’s museums can be surprisingly challenging with a buggy – even if a lift is available, stairs often pop up mid-way, so be prepared.
Getting around Turin isn’t for the faint-hearted, especially with little ones. Italians are known for their relaxed approach to queuing, and priority seating on buses isn’t something to rely on. If you need a seat with a baby in tow, be prepared to speak up – don’t wait for an offer. Also, buses have a habit of running late, so a bit of patience (or a snack stash) goes a long way!
One important thing to note is that you can’t purchase tickets directly on buses or trams. Instead, you’ll need to buy them in advance at Tabacchi shops – these are small convenience stores, often selling cigarettes, snacks, and lottery tickets. It’s a system that might catch you off guard if you’re unfamiliar with it, so plan ahead to avoid any last-minute scrambles for tickets. Just remember to validate your ticket in the machine once you board!
And for those of you who don’t speak Italian, a quick tip: don’t count on English. A phrasebook or translation app will be your best friend here.
On the food side of things, Turin gave us a chance to introduce Mimi and Lou to something delightfully peculiar—pizza and chips. Have you heard of fish and chips? Well, imagine its Italian cousin! The girls were instantly intrigued and happily munched away. They even picked up a cultural lesson along the way: to say food is good in Italian, you can use the buono gesture, also known as the “yummy” gesture:
- Poke your index finger into your cheek.
- Rotate your finger in both directions.
The giggles that followed as they practiced this at the table were priceless!
On our final day, we took Mimi and Lou to Parco del Valentino, a lush and inviting space perfect for a family outing. Though the Borgo Medievale was sadly closed, Mimi and Lou were far too busy chasing squirrels and bunnies, and observing an unexpected new discovery – nutria, the large rodents near the lakes. We had no idea what they were at first, so it was fascinating to learn about this animal, which added an extra layer of curiosity to our adventure. It was a delightful way to cap off our time in Turin, soaking in the Italian outdoors and making some fun wildlife discoveries along the way.
Italy with kids: MILAN
Our one-day visit to Milan was short but sweet, packed with some of the city’s most iconic sights and flavours. We started at the breathtaking Duomo di Milano, marvelling at its intricate Gothic architecture, before strolling through the elegant Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, where we couldn’t resist stopping for a classic Crodino and Campari at Camparino in Galleria – a quintessential Milanese experience.
For those unfamiliar, Crodino is Italy’s favourite non-alcoholic aperitivo. Its blend of citrus and herbs gives it a pleasantly bitter yet refreshing taste, perfect for sipping while soaking in the lively atmosphere of Milan. Campari, on the other hand, is a classic Italian bitter liqueur often enjoyed in cocktails like the Negroni or Spritz. Its distinctively rich, herbal flavour with hints of orange peel is an acquired taste but one deeply tied to Italian aperitivo culture.
While exploring the Galleria, we spotted the famous Torino bull mosaic on the floor – a tradition dictates that spinning on the bull’s “attributes” is supposed to bring good luck. Unfortunately, there was quite a crowd gathered around, and with everyone starting to feel a bit peckish, we decided to skip it and save our energy for what came next!
We then made our way to the charming Navigli district to explore the canals and enjoy an unforgettable meal at Al Coniglio Bianco. Their risotto alla Milanese with osso buco was a true highlight, perfectly embodying the rich, comforting flavours of the region. For dessert, we made our way to Ciacco, a gelateria that more than lives up to its reputation as the best in Milan. Choosing from their incredible selection of flavours was no easy task, but the zucca (pumpkin) gelato stole the show for us.
Tip for Families: If you’re visiting Milan by car, we’d highly recommend parking outside the city centre and using the underground/metro to get around – it’s both practical and efficient. Just be mindful of pickpockets, which are unfortunately quite common on public transport. Another safety measure we always rely on when visiting busy places is dressing the girls in standout shades. Not only does it keep things playful, but it also gives us peace of mind, knowing they’re easier to spot in case we get separated. Safety and style – what’s not to love?
Italy with kids: CASALPUSTERLENGO
After the hustle and bustle of Milan, we hopped on a train to the charming town of Casalpusterlengo to stay with friends. This small Lombardy town, often referred to as Casale by locals, offers a stark contrast to the urban vibrancy of Milan. Known for its tranquil atmosphere and slower pace of life, it’s the perfect spot to recharge.
While it’s not brimming with famous landmarks, Casalpusterlengo has its own subtle charm. The town square is a lovely spot for a stroll, surrounded by historic buildings and cafés.
One of the highlights of our visit was seeing the Torre Pusterla, the most famous landmark of the town. This striking medieval tower, dating back to the 13th century, is a relic of Casalpusterlengo’s fortified past and a symbol of its history. It’s named after the influential Pusterla family, who were prominent figures in the region during the Middle Ages. Standing near the tower, you can’t help but imagine the stories it has witnessed over centuries.
But the best part of our visit wasn’t a monument or a landmark – it was the incredible hospitality of our friends who treated us with mouth-watering homemade meals. It was a reminder that sometimes the best travel memories come not from famous sights but from the people who welcome you into their lives.
Casalpusterlengo might not be on every tourist map, but it offered us a glimpse into the quiet beauty and warmth of small-town Italy, making it a memorable stop on our journey.
Italy with kids: LENNA
Our generous hosts treated us to a visit to Ferdy Wild, a charming agriturismo nestled in the Lombardy mountains, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip. The stunning mountain views left us awestruck, and Mimi was utterly fascinated by the experience of being surrounded by towering peaks.
The tasting menu was a culinary delight, featuring locally sourced ingredients that truly captured the essence of the region. My personal favourite? The grand finale: dessert! However, a little tip for non-Italian speakers – if you don’t know the language, understanding the dishes can be a bit of a guessing game. But honestly, that’s part of the charm of an authentic Italian dining experience. Be prepared for a leisurely pace, though; the meals took their time to arrive, which was a bit challenging for our little ones. That said, the staff were wonderfully professional, and the wait was well worth it.
Here’s a fun fact: Italians usually skip dessert wine and opt for a digestivo like amaro instead. So, if you’re offered a small glass of something bitter and herbal after your meal, don’t be surprised – it’s tradition!
But let’s be honest, the real stars of Ferdy Wild were the animals. Lou, who adores bunnies (and fittingly has the rabbit as her Chinese zodiac sign), was absolutely over the moon. She chanted Hop Little Bunny and giggled non-stop at the sight of the rabbits. She also spent a good deal of time chasing after the cats, enthusiastically shouting “Meow!” in what we assumed was her attempt to declare her peaceful intentions to them.
Mimi, on the other hand, was enamoured with the ponies and proudly volunteered to help milk a cow. She’s still talking about the experience, and it’s heart-warming to see how much joy that simple task brought her.
At night, we left Ferdy Wild with a promise to return, knowing that being surrounded by nature’s beauty and indulging in exquisite food is the essence of what truly nourishes us. It’s the kind of experience that invites us to stay longer, breathe deeper, and savour the simple pleasures that make life so special.
Italy with kids: VERONA
Our day in Verona was a whirlwind of sights, flavours, and, let’s be honest, a fair bit of parenting chaos. We began at the Arena di Verona, a magnificent Roman amphitheatre that predates the Colosseum in Rome. It’s a spectacular structure still used for concerts and opera performances. The scale and history of the arena left us all awestruck.
From there, we wandered to Juliet’s House (Casa di Giulietta), famous for its connection to Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. The courtyard was bustling with tourists, all eager to touch Juliet’s bronze statue for good luck in love. Of course, we joined in the tradition. Mimi found it funny but was more interested in asking who Juliet was, while Lou remained blissfully unaware of the romance.
Lunch was at La Vecia Mescola dell’Oste, where we tried the iconic Veronese dish: risotto all’Amarone. The creamy, rich flavours of the risotto paired with Amarone wine were unforgettable – I’m still dreaming about it! Lou was feeling the strain of travel and gave us a bit of a hard time during the meal, but the staff were incredibly patient and kind.
No Italian day is complete without gelato, and we treated ourselves at Come Una Volta, a charming gelateria with artisan flavours. As the day wound down, we attempted to find a picture book of Romeo and Juliet in English, but luck wasn’t on our side. It was a small disappointment in an otherwise wonderful day.
Mimi was her usual high-energy self, singing, jumping, and keeping everyone entertained (or on edge!) as we strolled through Piazza delle Erbe, one of Verona’s most vibrant squares. Surrounded by stunning medieval buildings, frescoed facades, and market stalls, it’s a must-visit spot to soak in the city’s charm. We also admired Piazza dei Signori, the city’s quieter yet equally impressive square, where statues of Dante and other historic figures preside over the scene.
Verona’s charm lies not only in its famous landmarks but in its smaller, enchanting moments. The Ponte Pietra, a Roman bridge with breathtaking views over the Adige River, is worth crossing just for the scenery. And while we didn’t climb Torre dei Lamberti this time, its towering presence was amazing to see and added to the city’s breathtaking skyline.
At the end of the day, Lou eventually surrendered to her exhaustion, falling asleep on Pedro’s shoulders and the City of Love felt like the perfect match for our adventures, creating memories we’ll treasure forever.
Italy with kids: PARMA
Our visit to Coloreto, a charming neighbourhood in Parma, was brief but unforgettable, thanks to the highly recommended Trattoria Ai Due Platani. Renowned for its traditional Emilia cuisine, this cosy spot surpassed all our expectations.
The meal was a perfect blend of simplicity and excellence, with dishes so comforting and delicious that they left an impression not just on our taste buds, but on our hearts. The highlight, of course, was the fresh pasta, which was the epitome of handmade perfection – light, flavourful, and soul-satisfying.
We were incredibly fortunate that our friends had managed to secure a booking months in advance, as this trattoria is notoriously difficult to get into. The staff were not only professional but also radiated warmth and hospitality, making the entire experience feel like dining in someone’s home.
And let’s not forget dessert: the homemade ice cream prepared right at our table was a showstopper. Its creamy texture and rich flavour made it a sweet finale to an already exceptional meal.
To top it off, the value for money was fantastic, especially considering the high-quality ingredients and memorable dining experience.
If you’re ever in Parma, Trattoria Ai Due Platani is worth every effort to visit – just be sure to book well in advance. It’s a place where traditional cuisine is celebrated and shared with love, one plate at a time.
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